Ramen, the popular dish featuring flavorful broth, chewy noodles, and a variety of toppings, is loved by people around the world. But where did ramen actually start? The story behind ramen is not as simple as it might seem. Although it is considered a Japanese dish today, its beginnings are closely tied to Chinese noodle dishes, showing how food cultures can blend and change over time.
Simply put, ramen is Japan’s version of Chinese wheat noodle soups. It uses Chinese-style alkaline noodles, called chūkamen, served in different broths with various toppings. The most common soup bases are soy sauce and miso, while toppings often include sliced pork (chāshū), dried seaweed (nori), bamboo shoots (menma), and green onions. Another unique feature of ramen is its regional differences across Japan. Almost every area has its own style, like the creamy pork bone broth (tonkotsu) ramen from Kyushu and the miso ramen from Hokkaido.
Where Did Ramen Begin?
Tracing ramen’s journey from its beginnings to its present popularity shows it is a result of cultural sharing and change. The earliest forms of ramen come from Chinese noodle soups, which were then introduced to Japan. Japanese cooks added their own flavors and ideas, and ramen turned into something special in Japan before eventually becoming a favorite dish around the world.
Where Did Ramen Originate?
Although ramen is now seen as a Japanese food, its earliest ancestor is Chinese noodle soup, especially from southern China around areas like Guangzhou. Many of the first Chinese settlers in Yokohama’s Chinatown were from Canton (Guangzhou) or Shanghai. Ramen does not come from the pulled noodles of northern China called lamian, even though the words sound similar. Instead, ramen is more closely related to Cantonese dishes like char siu tangmian (roast pork noodle soup) and rousi tangmian (pork noodle soup) from the Jiangnan area.
Another key part of ramen is the type of noodles used. Ramen noodles are made with kansui (alkaline water), originally from the Chinese ingredient jiǎnshuǐ. This gives ramen noodles their yellow shade and springy feel. Japanese records, such as a diary from Kyoto’s Shōkoku-ji Temple in 1488, mention eating Chinese-style noodles made with kansui, showing that alkaline noodles were present in Japan very early.
How Did Ramen Come to Japan?
The exact way ramen came to Japan is still debated, but most scholars think Chinese immigrants brought their noodles to Japan in the late 1800s or early 1900s. In 1858, when Japan reopened to foreigners after a long period of isolation, new foods and cooking styles began to arrive. Chinese traders, especially those in Yokohama’s newly created Chinatown in the 1880s, shared their food traditions.
By 1884, Chinese wheat noodles, known as Nankin soba (“Nanjing noodles”), became available in large port cities such as Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, and Hakodate. Many early customers were fellow Chinese immigrants. Eventually, laws changed to let foreigners open businesses outside their communities. As a result, Chinese restaurants spread throughout Japan by 1900, serving basic noodle dishes in broth, which led to the early forms of ramen. It was common at the time for Chinese people in Japan to sell ramen and dumplings (gyōza) from mobile stalls, introducing more Japanese people to these foods.
Origin of the Word “Ramen” and the First Mentioned Dishes
The word “ramen” and the earliest versions of the dish offer insight into its journey from China to Japan and how it changed over time.
What Does “Ramen” Mean?
In Japanese, “ramen” (ラーメン or らあめん) comes from the Chinese word lāmiàn (拉麵), which means “pulled noodles.” But, ramen noodles are usually cut, not pulled, so the connection is mostly by name. Still, the borrowed word highlights its Chinese background even after the dish changed in Japan.
The earliest use of the word “ramen” in Japan was in Seiichi Yoshida’s 1928 book, “How to Prepare Delicious and Economical Chinese Dishes.” At that time, “ramen” meant just the noodles. The first mention of ramen as a dish appears later, in a 1947 cookbook called “Enjoyable Home Cooking” by Hatsuko Kuroda.
Early Variations and Names
Before “ramen” became the common name, people in Japan called similar dishes by other names, such as Nankin soba (南京そば; “Nanjing noodles”), Shina soba (支那そば; “Chinese noodles”), and Chūka soba (中華そば; also “Chinese noodles”). “Shina soba” was a popular term until the 1950s, but it later fell out of use due to negative associations. Today, “chūka soba” and “ramen” are common.
| Early Name | Japanese | Literal Meaning | Current Usage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nankin soba | 南京そば | Nanjing noodles | Rare |
| Shina soba | 支那そば | Chinese noodles | Rare (outdated) |
| Chūka soba | 中華そば | Chinese noodles | Sometimes used |
| Ramen | ラーメン | – | Common |
The first known Chinese noodle restaurant in Japan, called Nankin soba dokoro (“Nanjing noodle restaurant”), opened in 1903 in Yokohama’s Chinatown. This tells us that dishes similar to ramen were already being served to both Chinese and Japanese customers over 100 years ago.
Main Influences on Ramen’s Development
Ramen went from being a foreign food to a Japanese favorite, thanks to several important changes and influences along the way.
Chinese Influence
The influence of Chinese cooking in ramen is clear. The basic idea of wheat noodles in broth, especially with the use of alkaline noodles (chūkamen), comes directly from China. Kansui, the alkaline mineral water used to make these noodles, gives them their well-known chewy texture and color. Early Chinese restaurants in Japan, especially those in Yokohama, served noodle soups with simple broths and pork, reflecting the traditions of southern Chinese cities. This was the foundation for ramen in Japan.
Japanese Changes and Ideas
The big changes to ramen happened in Japan, where cooks got creative with the dish. Japanese chefs played around with different broths, seasonings (tare), and toppings, which led to a huge variety of ramen styles. They combined Chinese noodles with Japanese food traditions to create something new.
This can be seen in the many types of broths that Japanese chefs developed over time. For example:
- Using dashi (Japanese soup stock) made from fish or kelp
- Making broths like chintan (clear soup) and paitan (creamy soup, like tonkotsu)
- Creating a range of tare (flavor bases) such as salt (shio), soy sauce (shōyu), and miso
Japanese cooks also spent lots of time perfecting noodle texture, soup flavor, and the right combination of toppings, all of which helped ramen become a central part of Japanese food.
Main Events in Ramen History
Several moments helped ramen grow from a new immigrant dish to a Japanese favorite and finally to a food loved around the world.
The First Ramen Restaurant
The first ramen-only restaurant was Rairaiken (来々軒), which opened in 1910 in Asakusa, Tokyo. Kan’ichi Ozaki, who founded the shop, hired twelve Cantonese cooks from Yokohama Chinatown. They made ramen focused on Japanese tastes. The shop’s popularity grew quickly, sometimes selling up to 3,000 bowls per day. Although it closed in 1976, a new version of Rairaiken is open at the Shin-Yokohama Rāmen Museum today.
Post-War Black Markets and Growth
After World War II, Japan had food shortages and rice was hard to get. The US occupation government sent large amounts of wheat flour to Japan, which caused people to eat more wheat noodles like ramen. Although outdoor food stalls were officially banned, many people set up black market stalls selling ramen. At this time, ramen became a cheap and filling meal in cities, helping many people survive. When rules were relaxed in 1950, thousands more ramen vendors opened, helping ramen become a regular part of Japanese life.
Invention of Instant Ramen
The biggest breakthrough in ramen’s history happened in 1958 when Momofuku Ando invented instant noodles. He wanted to create an easy and quick meal, so he tried different methods until he figured out how to flash-fry and dry noodles, which could then be quickly cooked with hot water. His first product, “Chicken Ramen,” started the instant noodle industry.
Instant ramen allowed people everywhere to enjoy ramen easily and cheaply. In 1971, Ando introduced “Cup Noodles,” which were packaged in a foam cup, making them even easier to eat. Instant noodles became popular worldwide, especially with students and people looking for a fast meal. In Japan, instant ramen is still seen as one of the country’s most important inventions of the 20th century.
Myths and Mistakes About Ramen’s Origin
Because ramen has a long and changing history, there are several misunderstandings about where it began.
- Myth 1: Ramen is an ancient Japanese dish.
In reality, ramen in its modern form first appeared in Japan less than 150 years ago because of Chinese influence. - Myth 2: Ramen noodles come from Chinese hand-pulled noodles (lamian).
The word “ramen” comes from “lamian,” but ramen noodles are cut with a knife and use kansui, which makes them different. - Myth 3: Ramen was served in Japan as early as the 1660s.
There are stories that Zhu Shunsui made a noodle dish for a Japanese ruler, but this dish was very different from today’s ramen. The real start of ramen as a popular dish came much later, during the Meiji period (1868-1912).
These false ideas often arise because people want to claim that ramen has always been part of Japanese food or want a simple story about its beginnings. However, the real story of ramen is about how Japanese cooks took ideas from Chinese noodles and made them their own.